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Monochrome Tuesday: Reviewing the Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph

A few years ago, Patek Philippe introduced a new Ref. 5980/1A with a white dial (for laymen: that’s the Nautilus Chronograph). We at Monochrome Watches were a bit surprised to discover, at Baselworld 2014, that Patek had already discontinued the steel 5980/1A model  and replaced it with a steel Nautilus Chronograph with a second time zone, like the one in the Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5164.

 

Patek Philippe 5990 Nautilus

That means that the 5980/1A-019 (the white-dial Nautilus Chrono) will have been in production for only two years. Since we’re talking about Patek here, productions numbers are rather low, and this reference is now a very rare bird which we expect to become very collectible. Although the other steel 5980/1A models are not as rare (but super-rare compared to a replica Rolex Submariner, for instance), we would not be surprised to see their prices climb now that the demand can no longer be fulfilled at Patek boutiques but only on the secondary market. But now, let’s take a look at the newbie in the Nautilus family, whose additional second-time-zone function works just like the one in the aforementioned Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time, introduced in 2011 (see here).

Patek Philippe ref.5990/1A - live

On the dial, we see the chronograph register at 6 o’clock, and, similar to that on the Aquanaut Travel Time, it features a pointer-date, now positioned on the upper part of the dial. The date indication is connected to the local time, which is your travel destination. When traveling, it can be adjusted both forward and backward, to follow the date of the time zone where you are. To the left and right on the dial are two small apertures, which indicate day and night in both the local time zone and the home time zone. The chronograph pushers – to start, stop and reset to zero – are located on the left-hand side of the case, just like on the Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980/1A. Where the old 5980/1A had a 60-minute and 12-hour register for measuring elapsed time, the new ref. 5990/1A has just one 60-minute counter. While you won’t be able to measure how long that intercontinental flight took anymore, the new subdial is cleaner and easier to read. And with the additional pointer-date register, that’s a good thing.

Patek Philippe ref.5990/1A - wrist

On the left-hand side of the case are two pushers for changing the local time zone when you’re traveling. Design-wise, Patek Philippe did very well here, because these pushers look like the typical “ears” of the Nautilus case. However, adding them forced Patek to change the model’s typical two-part case for a more traditional three-part case. Although the entire case construction has changed, the diameter is still 40.5 mm and the case is still water-resistant to 120 meters. Also the overall case thickness is not much greater (the official data is not provided) than the 5980’s thickness of 12.6 mm. When we saw the first images, we “feared” the best quality replica watch would be too thick and too busy on the dial. After trying it on the wrist, we’re convinced that our fears were groundless.

Patek Philippe ref.5990/1A - wrist - angle

The movement of the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph, Caliber 28-520 C FUS, starts with the same base caliber as its predecessor; however, now it has an additional module for the two time zones (called “FUS”) — again, the same module used in the Aquanaut Travel Time. The retail price in Swiss Francs is CHF 47,000 (about $57,300), just a few thousand more than the steel Ref. 5980/1A. That’s still a lot of money, but we’re glad that Patek didn’t set the price even higher. Despite the fact that the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph is a great addition to the Nautilus collection, I will miss the 5980/1A, because of its sportier look. I still consider the 5980/1A to be the Magnum Opus of luxury sports fake watches. Check here for our extensive review of the Nautilus 5980/1A.

Our conclusion? In terms of size and comfort, the new 5990/1A is more or less equivalent to the 5980/1A. However, in terms of functionality, the new 5990/1A is superior to the older 5980/1A and we believe that this is exactly the type of swiss replica watch that many of Patek’s customers — with their daily business-travel life — are looking for.

Omega’s New Watch Certification: What Makes It Different?

In December, Omega and METAS, the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology, held a joint press conference in Geneva to announce a new collaboration. Starting in 2015, Omega cheap replica watches that are badged “Master Co-Axial” will be officially certified by METAS, using a new testing system. But what does this mean for Omega, and for watch certification systems in general? Let’s take a look.

At the December Press Conference, held at the Cité du Temps in Geneva, Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek was joined by Omega President Stephen Urquhart and Christian Bock, the director of METAS, to discuss the new system.

Omega and Metas Press Conference

The new certification represents a higher standard of accuracy. Omega watches will now be certified for not just consistent timekeeping but also for antimagnetism and water resistance. METAS, which describes itself as “the federal centre of competence for all issues related to measurement and for measuring equipment and measuring procedures,” will become the impartial regulating body to ensure that Omega’s manufacturing standards meet the brand’s promises. Going forward, all Omega Master Co-Axial calibers will be tested to meet certain standards. Each movement must continue to function when exposed to magnetic fields greater than 15,000 Gauss. Each finished watch must also continue to function when exposed to magnetic fields greater than 15,000 Gauss. The high quality replica watch must keep consistent time, between 0 and +5 seconds/day, when tested at different temperatures and in different positions. Finally, each watch must be tested to ensure it achieves its stated power reserve and water resistance.

Omega Seamaster Master Co-Axial Chronometer

Omega’s move to develop a new certification system with METAS is significant for several reasons. For the last several years, Omega has been at the lead in developing new measures to protect top quality replica watches uk from magnetic fields. With the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss, the brand has produced a cheap replica watch movement that can keep time consistently even after exposure to some of the most intense magnetic fields a person is likely to encounter. (Note: You can read WatchTime’s review of the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss in our January-February 2015 issue or download it directly from our online shop by clicking here.)

The key to Omega’s design innovations is the use of antimagnetic materials inside the movement. Whereas the common solution to magnetism has been to shield the movement inside a soft iron Faraday cage, Omega’s antimagnetic watches use silicon balance springs which will not respond to magnetic fields at all. Since Omega has been publicizing its accomplishments in antimagnetic watchmaking, the new certification allows the brand to make this engineering achievement official, as a standard that can be confirmed by an impartial observer.

Another reason for the new certificate is COSC. For years, the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres has been the gold standard for the watch industry. This independent Swiss body tests uncased movements for timekeeping accuracy, and is the only institution in Switzerland that can sanction the use of the term “chronometer” on a watch dial. Omega has long been a major supporter of COSC. Of the 1.69 million discount fake watches COSC certified in 2013, more than 447,000 were for Omega, making it the second biggest chronometer producer after Rolex.

http://www.watchtime.com/cms/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/SE185_OMEGA_Seamaster_Aqua_Terra_15000_GAUSS_with_background.jpg

However, in recent years an increasing number of watch brands have sought other standards of quality or have formed their own, often believing that COSC certification is too lenient. To pass the COSC test a watch movement must maintain accuracy between -4 and +6 seconds per day; however, a movement’s timekeeping can be affected during the casing-up process or when the rotor is affixed on an automatic – and all of this occurs after the COSC test has been completed. Since the new Omega testing will be performed on both the movement and on the finished watch – and since it has a narrower allowance, not permitting the swiss replica watch to lose seconds, only to gain – it should provide a higher standard than COSC. Omega will continue to certify its chronometers with COSC over the coming years, but the number of movements receiving COSC certification will decrease as more and more Master Co-Axial calibers receive the new METAS certification.

The new certificate will also have far-ranging effects on how and where Omega manufactures its luxury fake watches. While testing will initially occur in Omega’s current facilities, the brand has plans for a new factory with a dedicated testing site. Testing will be performed and checked onsite according to METAS specifications. Omega is also making it easier to get information on watch testing than before. The owner of a certified Master Co-Axial Omega will be able to log onto a site using the watch’s warranty card. There, the specific results of the individual watch, as well as the testing parameters, will be readily available. At the press conference in December, Hayek and Urquhart were encouraging about the fact that any brand can contract with METAS for an impartial certification system. While Omega has provided its particular standards for the Master Co-Axial movements, other brands could follow suit. Hayek expressed hopes that this development may lead to more widespread innovation. “This would benefit the entire industry – not only in Switzerland but in China and Japan and in other countries with a history of innovative watchmaking,” Hayek said.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss - frontOmega Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss - back_560

 

Hands-On Habring2 Felix Review – Made in Austria

There is a fair chance you never heard from this small watch brand from Austria, run by Maria and Richard Habring. We don’t blame you of course, but if this is the case, it is time you do learn about Habring2. This discount fake watch company was founded in 2004 and gained a tremendous amount of respect among watch enthusiasts and collectors world wide.

About time we spend some time with one of their watches. Actually, it is the watch that put Habring2 on the horological map of true manufactures. The Habring2 Felix is their first watch with an entirely in-house developed and produced movement, the caliber A11B. I was able to wear one for a couple of weeks and will share my thoughts about the Habring2 Felix with you in this review.

Habring2 Felix Review

Truth to be told, I don’t own a real modern dress watch today. My wife snatched my Chronoswiss Regulateur and the dress watches I do have (or can keep), are vintage ones with incredibly small diameters (for today’s standards). However, I do feel that I should have one actually – for quite a while now – but many of them are either making me think I am old or are just too expensive for me right now. Therefore, I was happy to see that this Habring2 Felix has a modern cut 38.5mm and only measures 7mm in height. A perfect size for a dress watch in my book.

You might think the Habring2 Felix looks a bit boring at first sight, but I’ve found the opposite to be true. Sure, the silvery white dial with stick markers and slim hands are far away from a cluttered dial, but for a dress offer good quality cheap watches it should be calm and easy on the eyes. The case is thin and the lugs are long and curved, making it a nice thin watch that will easily fit under any cuff. On top, you’ll find a smooth polished bezel and a spherical sapphire crystal. The winding crown has a perfect size compared to the case, yet big enough to be grasped easily by the owner. Winding the movement with the unsigned crown is a joy, as smooth as silk. I am not sure why Habring2 left the crown unsigned, but I also can’t come up with something they should have engraved in there.

Habring2-Felix-007

As you can see below, the dial on the Habring2 Felix has some neat characteristics. The small seconds at 9 o’clock (this watch can also be delivered without, making it a two-hand watch) have this fine grain pattern in the sub dial. The Arabic ’12’ on top of the dial goes almost unnoticed, as it perfectly blends in with the eleven remaining stick markers. On request, the Habring2 Felix is also available with a Roman ‘XII’. Although I love my two-hand Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and many praise it for having only two hands, I wonder whether the Habring2 Felix gets away with it as it will become even cleaner than it already is. The fine grain in the sub dial at 9 o’clock ‘breaks’ the dial a bit and makes it interesting to look at, over and over again. The Habring2 logo is written in this Italic font which looks playful and below there is a proud mention of the country of origin, Austria.

Habring2 Felix

The polished bezel and upper side of the lugs and brushed side of the watch makes the Habring2 Felix playful with sun light. Turning the cheap replica watches for sale around will give you a nice view on the in-house developed Habring2 caliber A11B movement. The Habring2 A11 movements will have a couple of variants, like the A11D (with date feature), A11S (jumping second) and a A11SD (you guessed it already, a date and jumping second). However, the Felix is coming with the A11B movement. A beautiful 30mm hand-wound movement with 48-hours of power reserve and finished (polished edges, perlage, engravings) by hand.

The escapement is anti-magnetic and the KIF shock protection complies to DIN and NIHS standards. The Habring2 caliber A11B movement has 18 jewels, ticks at 28,800vph and consists of 99 parts in total.

Habring2 FelixHabring2 Felix

The watch Habring2 sent me came on this beautiful ostrich strap that matched nicely with the dial of the watch. On the official website the Habring2 Felix is being pictured with a brown calf strap, but for formal occasions I’d prefer the ostrich strap it came on.

I’ve worn the watch for quite a while which tells me that it is an easy and comfortable watch to wear. Some watches that I receive for review – or that I even own myself – are becoming uncomfortable or better said, it requires a bit of effort to wear them after a while. This Habring2 Felix, despite the statement I wrote earlier in this review about it being a bit boring looking at first sight, is something I could buy myself and even more important, wear for a long time.

It might not be the conversation maker you’d want it to be, as there is enough you can tell and explain about this watch, but the average conversation partner is not very likely to identify it. However, other (watch) people will surely appreciate the looks of the watch and then it is up to you – the wearer – to show them the nice in-house movement and tell them about this small manufacture from Austria. From the start I liked the in-house movement and the clean look of this Austrian watch, the design was something I started to appreciate even more after time.

Habring2-Felix-002Perhaps the best thing is yet to come, as I didn’t mention the price tag on this Habring2 Felix manufacture timepiece. Where some watch brands are even unable to deliver you a flawlessly working watch with 3rd party movement from ETA or the likes, Maria and Richard Habring decided to put their Habring2 Felix on the market for € 4450 Euro. To be honest, that’s something I didn’t expect when I first looked at the best quality replica watches and then decided to read all the papers (stating the price) that came with the package. After a short inspection of the watch I really thought this watch would be in a higher price region. The finish is awesome, there are no design flaws and for a small company, they produce their own movements, that won’t be a cheap watch (but my initial guess was still below €8000 Euro).

Not only do you buy a real manufacture watch, you also buy replica watch from two nice people that have a visible passion and dedication for what they do and appreciate that you are willing to spend your money on one of their fine timepieces (something big brands are taking for granted more and more as it seems). This is something that goes for a lot of independent brands, but Habring2 is the one that is able to deliver something truly interesting at a very reasonable price point.