Category Archives: Luxury Fake Watches

TAG Heuer Replica Carrera Calibre 1887 vs. Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue

One sporty chronograph, the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 Jack Heuer Edition, meets another, the Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue, in this comparative luxury fake watch test. All original photos are by WatchTime’s Nik Schölzel.

These two chronographs have their roots in the ’70s. TAG Heuer’s Carrera Calibre 1887 Jack Heuer Edition, which debuted in April 2013, uses a 1970s-inspired design in which the chronograph pushers sit at the top of the case. Tudor’s Heritage Chrono Blue is an updated version of the distinctive Montecarlo chronograph, launched in 1973. Like the Montecarlo, which was produced for only a short time, the Heritage Chrono Blue has a bi-compax design and a rotating bezel that can indicate a second time zone. We examined these sporty instrument watches to see what happens when they go head to head.

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 vs. Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue

The design of the TAG Heuer watch is sometimes called a “bullhead”: the crown is at 12 o’clock and the chronograph pushers are on either side of it, suggesting (mildly) a bull’s horns. This arrangement, which has its origins in stopwatches, began to migrate to wristwatches in the 1970s. It prevents the crown from pressing uncomfortably against the back of the wearer’s wrist. Furthermore, the chronograph can be conveniently started, stopped and reset with the index finger. To keep the pushers free of obstruction, the TAG Heuer’s lugs slope down more severely at the top of the case than at the bottom. Still, the discount fake watch fits easily under a shirt cuff. We found little to detract from its wearing comfort, although the well-crafted folding clasp is a bit bulky. The closure has a locking mechanism that enables you to alter the strap length, so the 45-mm case won’t slip back and forth on your wrist.

The case is complex. The bezel is stainless steel with a glossy finished coating of titanium carbide. As the name suggests, titanium carbide is a composite of titanium and carbon. The substance has a hardness of 4,000 Vickers. For comparison’s sake: ordinary steel of the sort used for most replica watch uk cases has a hardness between 200 and 240 Vickers. The outer, uncoated stainless-steel portion of the case is elaborately milled, with different surfaces that are polished, satin-finished, or sandblasted. The movement is contained in a section of the case made of titanium coated with a matte-finished layer of titanium carbide. The case of the Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue is simpler than that of the TAG, but it does have many high-quality features. For starters, its pushers and crown are screwed, which contributes toward making the case water resistant to 150 meters – a claim that was confirmed in our test. Furthermore, the edges, chamfers, knurling, polishes and satin-finishing are very precisely crafted – perhaps too precisely, considering the sharp lower edges of the case’s middle piece. Last but not least, the time-zone bezel clicks into position without play or wiggle. It is graduated in 48 increments: this number enables you to set the bezel to time zones that differ from adjacent zones by half an hour or 15 minutes, as is the situation, for example, in Venezuela, India, Nepal, and parts of Australia.

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 vs. Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue - side views

Monochrome Tuesday: Reviewing the Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph

A few years ago, Patek Philippe introduced a new Ref. 5980/1A with a white dial (for laymen: that’s the Nautilus Chronograph). We at Monochrome Watches were a bit surprised to discover, at Baselworld 2014, that Patek had already discontinued the steel 5980/1A model  and replaced it with a steel Nautilus Chronograph with a second time zone, like the one in the Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5164.

 

Patek Philippe 5990 Nautilus

That means that the 5980/1A-019 (the white-dial Nautilus Chrono) will have been in production for only two years. Since we’re talking about Patek here, productions numbers are rather low, and this reference is now a very rare bird which we expect to become very collectible. Although the other steel 5980/1A models are not as rare (but super-rare compared to a replica Rolex Submariner, for instance), we would not be surprised to see their prices climb now that the demand can no longer be fulfilled at Patek boutiques but only on the secondary market. But now, let’s take a look at the newbie in the Nautilus family, whose additional second-time-zone function works just like the one in the aforementioned Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time, introduced in 2011 (see here).

Patek Philippe ref.5990/1A - live

On the dial, we see the chronograph register at 6 o’clock, and, similar to that on the Aquanaut Travel Time, it features a pointer-date, now positioned on the upper part of the dial. The date indication is connected to the local time, which is your travel destination. When traveling, it can be adjusted both forward and backward, to follow the date of the time zone where you are. To the left and right on the dial are two small apertures, which indicate day and night in both the local time zone and the home time zone. The chronograph pushers – to start, stop and reset to zero – are located on the left-hand side of the case, just like on the Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980/1A. Where the old 5980/1A had a 60-minute and 12-hour register for measuring elapsed time, the new ref. 5990/1A has just one 60-minute counter. While you won’t be able to measure how long that intercontinental flight took anymore, the new subdial is cleaner and easier to read. And with the additional pointer-date register, that’s a good thing.

Patek Philippe ref.5990/1A - wrist

On the left-hand side of the case are two pushers for changing the local time zone when you’re traveling. Design-wise, Patek Philippe did very well here, because these pushers look like the typical “ears” of the Nautilus case. However, adding them forced Patek to change the model’s typical two-part case for a more traditional three-part case. Although the entire case construction has changed, the diameter is still 40.5 mm and the case is still water-resistant to 120 meters. Also the overall case thickness is not much greater (the official data is not provided) than the 5980’s thickness of 12.6 mm. When we saw the first images, we “feared” the best quality replica watch would be too thick and too busy on the dial. After trying it on the wrist, we’re convinced that our fears were groundless.

Patek Philippe ref.5990/1A - wrist - angle

The movement of the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph, Caliber 28-520 C FUS, starts with the same base caliber as its predecessor; however, now it has an additional module for the two time zones (called “FUS”) — again, the same module used in the Aquanaut Travel Time. The retail price in Swiss Francs is CHF 47,000 (about $57,300), just a few thousand more than the steel Ref. 5980/1A. That’s still a lot of money, but we’re glad that Patek didn’t set the price even higher. Despite the fact that the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph is a great addition to the Nautilus collection, I will miss the 5980/1A, because of its sportier look. I still consider the 5980/1A to be the Magnum Opus of luxury sports fake watches. Check here for our extensive review of the Nautilus 5980/1A.

Our conclusion? In terms of size and comfort, the new 5990/1A is more or less equivalent to the 5980/1A. However, in terms of functionality, the new 5990/1A is superior to the older 5980/1A and we believe that this is exactly the type of swiss replica watch that many of Patek’s customers — with their daily business-travel life — are looking for.

Omega’s New Watch Certification: What Makes It Different?

In December, Omega and METAS, the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology, held a joint press conference in Geneva to announce a new collaboration. Starting in 2015, Omega cheap replica watches that are badged “Master Co-Axial” will be officially certified by METAS, using a new testing system. But what does this mean for Omega, and for watch certification systems in general? Let’s take a look.

At the December Press Conference, held at the Cité du Temps in Geneva, Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek was joined by Omega President Stephen Urquhart and Christian Bock, the director of METAS, to discuss the new system.

Omega and Metas Press Conference

The new certification represents a higher standard of accuracy. Omega watches will now be certified for not just consistent timekeeping but also for antimagnetism and water resistance. METAS, which describes itself as “the federal centre of competence for all issues related to measurement and for measuring equipment and measuring procedures,” will become the impartial regulating body to ensure that Omega’s manufacturing standards meet the brand’s promises. Going forward, all Omega Master Co-Axial calibers will be tested to meet certain standards. Each movement must continue to function when exposed to magnetic fields greater than 15,000 Gauss. Each finished watch must also continue to function when exposed to magnetic fields greater than 15,000 Gauss. The high quality replica watch must keep consistent time, between 0 and +5 seconds/day, when tested at different temperatures and in different positions. Finally, each watch must be tested to ensure it achieves its stated power reserve and water resistance.

Omega Seamaster Master Co-Axial Chronometer

Omega’s move to develop a new certification system with METAS is significant for several reasons. For the last several years, Omega has been at the lead in developing new measures to protect top quality replica watches uk from magnetic fields. With the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss, the brand has produced a cheap replica watch movement that can keep time consistently even after exposure to some of the most intense magnetic fields a person is likely to encounter. (Note: You can read WatchTime’s review of the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss in our January-February 2015 issue or download it directly from our online shop by clicking here.)

The key to Omega’s design innovations is the use of antimagnetic materials inside the movement. Whereas the common solution to magnetism has been to shield the movement inside a soft iron Faraday cage, Omega’s antimagnetic watches use silicon balance springs which will not respond to magnetic fields at all. Since Omega has been publicizing its accomplishments in antimagnetic watchmaking, the new certification allows the brand to make this engineering achievement official, as a standard that can be confirmed by an impartial observer.

Another reason for the new certificate is COSC. For years, the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres has been the gold standard for the watch industry. This independent Swiss body tests uncased movements for timekeeping accuracy, and is the only institution in Switzerland that can sanction the use of the term “chronometer” on a watch dial. Omega has long been a major supporter of COSC. Of the 1.69 million discount fake watches COSC certified in 2013, more than 447,000 were for Omega, making it the second biggest chronometer producer after Rolex.

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However, in recent years an increasing number of watch brands have sought other standards of quality or have formed their own, often believing that COSC certification is too lenient. To pass the COSC test a watch movement must maintain accuracy between -4 and +6 seconds per day; however, a movement’s timekeeping can be affected during the casing-up process or when the rotor is affixed on an automatic – and all of this occurs after the COSC test has been completed. Since the new Omega testing will be performed on both the movement and on the finished watch – and since it has a narrower allowance, not permitting the swiss replica watch to lose seconds, only to gain – it should provide a higher standard than COSC. Omega will continue to certify its chronometers with COSC over the coming years, but the number of movements receiving COSC certification will decrease as more and more Master Co-Axial calibers receive the new METAS certification.

The new certificate will also have far-ranging effects on how and where Omega manufactures its luxury fake watches. While testing will initially occur in Omega’s current facilities, the brand has plans for a new factory with a dedicated testing site. Testing will be performed and checked onsite according to METAS specifications. Omega is also making it easier to get information on watch testing than before. The owner of a certified Master Co-Axial Omega will be able to log onto a site using the watch’s warranty card. There, the specific results of the individual watch, as well as the testing parameters, will be readily available. At the press conference in December, Hayek and Urquhart were encouraging about the fact that any brand can contract with METAS for an impartial certification system. While Omega has provided its particular standards for the Master Co-Axial movements, other brands could follow suit. Hayek expressed hopes that this development may lead to more widespread innovation. “This would benefit the entire industry – not only in Switzerland but in China and Japan and in other countries with a history of innovative watchmaking,” Hayek said.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss - frontOmega Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss - back_560